Auke Bay, near Juneau

After sailing 1200 miles from Dutch Harbor and cutting across the north part of the Gulf of Alaska , Susie and I have arrived in Juneau area.


It feels like we have nearly left the wilderness behind now. Which is ironic, and mistaken, since we are still in the northern reaches of SE Alaska.

I think the feeling of civilisation is because of the super-benign weather. HOT and CALM for several days. People buzzing around in little outboard powered sport fishing boats, endless VHF radio chatter, Coast Guard radio chatter, and a few mega-yachts oozing around.

We will return to this coffee/waffle shop tomorrow for more internet


Last night we spent in Swanson Harbor just where Icy Strait meets Lynn Canal. We happened to cross tracks with our friends John and Barbara on Songline right at the bay entrance , so we went in and rafted up for the night. That was fun and we had lots of news to exchange.

This afternoon we tied up at the public marina in Auke Bay, 12 miles from Juneau. Hot ,calm, and busy. Later, a HUGE sailboat (295′) , the Athena tied up nearby. We are not in the bushes anymore.

A few days here , then Barb and I will head out , probably to visit Glacier Bay and the west side of Chichagof and Baranof. Susie is well rested and ready for the next 6 months without sleep.

Earl Cove , Inian Islands

A long day’s travel carried us 4 miles or so from Elfin Cove to a new anchorage. There were 3 Beaver flights in to Elfin Cove before 11 am today The humpbacks are cavorting at the mouth of the bay, the harbor porpoises carry out their inscrutable business around the boat, never showing their faces. The sea otters appear irregularly and gaze with apparent dismay on the scene. Big sealions occasionally emerge to tear up big salmon. The Lady Christine, a 240′ motor yacht, drifted by to watch the whales. We watched them all. New friends, from Whitehorse, came into the bay to clean their just-caught 75 lb halibut and gave us enough meat for 2 meals. The entire ocean is glacier-green. I paddled out in the kayak to get a closer look at the humpbacks, but I kept thinking about the incident in Unalaska Bay when the whale DID NOT know we were there, and struck the side of the boat in it’s haste to escape. I tried to get closer to the marbled murrelets, but they are too canny for that. Tomorrow to Hoonah, where ,we have been told, they have built facilities to entertain the cruise ship passengers, including a long thrilling ‘zipline’. More importantly, hot showers. We heard on the vhf radio a boat ‘checking in’ to Glacier Bay, so that they could go and visit the tidewater glaciers in a controlled fashion. Welcome to SE Alaska. A strange, beautiful brew.

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