We are steaming through the Galapagos having made landfall (as in sighted land) last evening but not landing . No anchorage yet. Still motoring. Going on for 4 days of motoring now. We had 4 lovely hours of sailing early this morning , but it didn’t last. This is the 20 th day. We have 80 miles to go to get to Wreck Bay on San Cristobal. We will likely arrive there in the small hours tomorrow , as we are still stemming a current. A current that sweeps up from the Cape Horn region and combines with the South Equatorial Current east of here , and pushes through the Galapagos relentlessly, without pause or reversal or respite. The air is a little cooler at 25 degr C and the sea surface temp has plummeted from 30 degr last midnight to 28 degr C at the moment.
The appearance of the islands is similar to Hawaii from a distance , which is not at all surprising , both groups being of “volcanic hotspot” origin “away from the margins of tectonic plates”. The islands are spread out , with 20 to 40 miles separating the major ones.
We have the smell of land aboard. Not an intertidal smell but that of bush vegetation and moist earth. We have been bathing daily so its not that.
We have rainshowers , frequent since yesterday , with black towering clouds around. No lightning though.
The rainshowers are discrete and focused enough on the radar screen that I had to keep looking out for ship lights, but rainshowers don’t have lights. Right now we are in the middle of one that looks like a big pointillist rorschach blot, wait! I can see the face of Jesus in there ! No ,it’s a map of Ireland !
I am neurotic enough that I am surprised that the engine and all its attachments continues to run flawlessly. No oil consumption. No loose belts. No coolant loss. Clean transmission fluid. Clean bilge underneath.
Meredith made pressure cooker Bran Loaf this morning. The “key” as told to me, is to not allow the pressure to drop during the process ( anesthesiologists can identify with this) and then to depressurise fairly quickly after the loaf is cooked. We think that these factors prevent moisture from condensing on the top of the loaf, which allows for a more ‘loaf’ like baked appearance. And gets away from the appearance of something that was discovered behind the couch about two weeks after your old Labrador dog died unexpectedly. But not shrivelled and with no crust, and certainly with no crop of hairy fungus that one might see on the retro-couch unit. Better tasting too.
Meredith remembered that when we encountered Darren and Tamera on Paudeen at sea halfway home from Hawaii in 2002 , Tamera had just made some ‘pressure cooker cookies’ aboard. I know other people that measure and mark their lives with recipes and meals as the indicators and footnotes.
The taste is the same. I mean it tastes good regardless of the appearance of the top surface. Not that it tastes like old stomach contents.
Someone sat on her Kindle unit last night , so that’s wrecked, screen cracked. I asked ,’is it like glass?’ ‘No , more like a ceramic pot’. Subtle. She has to finish her Patricia Cornwell novel on my Kindle. Mayhap we won’t be so cavalierly overboarding books any more. We have succesfully sat on many books.
I am in the middle of ‘First Lady of the Air’ a bio of Anne Morrow Lindbergh. And ‘ How to Be Good’ by Nick Hornby. Very funny and good depiction of over wrought middle class lives. I think I’ve read it before but it is good and funny the second time too. I think I might have lived parts of it , too.
I popped outside to have an eyeball around. Little cold pinpricks of rain on my bare skin. I will have to seriously consider a shirt soon. It is quite possible that this time tomorrow we will be getting outside of a hamburger and salad in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno ( and ,no, I don’t know the origin of that mouthful of a name, yet).
You can see the Storm Petrels touch their feet to the water surface , but I cannot see any transfer of anything to their mouths , nor do I see their mouths near the sea surface. How do they actually feed ?
Earthquake in Christchurch , no other facts available. Unrest in Libya.
What about the hijacked yacht in the Red Sea , the Quest from California with 4 onboard?