More Photos.

Here are some more pictures , some from Quellon that I forgot to post and a few others more recent. That child mannequin in front of the clothing store in Quellon was something to behold , and inadvertently in such bad taste, that even I debated about keeping the photograph. However,by way of compensation, there is also a really nice shot of an unknown nude bather at the hotsprings of Cahuelmo.

Ric ( see above, for more ‘detail’)¬† has flown to the north into the winter , like a wrong-headed migrant bird. But with his own good reasons. I shall follow soon in a month or so.

The sewing machine has been dragged out for some minor sail repair, the painting awaits some dry days, a propane tank was filled by decanting from full tanks borrowed form Curare ( with donor tank suspended 6′ up in the sun and the recipient tank on deck in the shade); a general interior and exterior cleaning; the chimney polished; bilge washed (!) etc , etc.

‘Curare'(Vancouver) has left for the southern channels, ‘Abrazo’ (Bellingham) has left for a week or two of local sailing with friends, ‘Westerly Serenade'(Australia) has been hauled out,’Caper’ (Auckland) is provisioning ready to sail towards Puerto Williams. ‘Yorikke’ ( Vancouver , sort of) is here at the marina.
‘Faraway’ , I think, has left Puerto Natales to sail north. I listened to the radio net this morning , but there is so much electrical radio interference here in Puerto Montt that I could not make out the conversation. “Caledonia’ is in Caleta Brecknock slowly sailing north. ‘Bomika’ is somewhere out there. Francesco of ‘Mittus’ (Italy) showed up yesterday for a visit by land, leaving his boat at Quinched.

Puerto Montt has an incredibly busy waterfront. Constant traffic of 15 to 20′ wooden skiffs , some of them pretty double-enders ferrying goods and people back and forth to Isla Tenglo, with 1 cyl gas or diesel engines , many without gears (no neutral or reverse) , so they use oars at each end of the short trips.
The aquaculture industry has spawned a big local fleet of 90 to 200′ steel work boats and cargo vessels. Many of them look like re-fitted north European fishing vessels. They are nearly all in very good condition and painted up. To my eye, a few of them are beautiful and evocative, with canoe sterns and raised whaleback foredecks.
The 50′ wooden general-purpose community boats from the archipelago along Chiloe ,are constantly coming and going , bringing people , animals and goods to the big smoke of “Muerto Montt”
Also there are many brutally utilitarian landing craft types, that plow by in the channel, dragging half the ocean with them.
In short , if you want to look at working boats , with a few hard-travelled yachts in the mix, Puerto Montt is the disneyland.

Walking back and forth to Puerto Montt is 5 or 6 kms along a gritty, trafficked road. Not bad , and its a relief to use some large muscle groups for a change. Ric and I tried walking back from town along the beach at low tide. Some of the waterfront sewage systems are brutally simple and fragrant.
Ain’t no ‘yarn bombing’ in Puerto Montt. I think maybe most of the tourists don’t even leave the bus terminal, other than those on yachts.
There is a good FM radio station with an announcer that speaks like the old FM dj’s in Vancouver, veeeerrry slow and relaxed; so that I can follow most of the Spanish.

That’s it from Puerto Montt , Los Lagos , Chile.

Chiloe Archipelago Photos

We are anchored at Quemchi this morning. It is calm with light overcast. We’ve had calm weather for a week at least. It is uncanny. It seems that the transition for us from difficult cold conditions to easy relaxed cruising has been very rapid.No real complaints but a little breeze would be nice. we would like to cross the Gofo de Ancud to the mainland inlets , but neither of us want to do any more motoring. So as I say , no complaints.

Last night we had a restaurant meal at ‘El Chejo’ a relatively well known restaurant in Quemchi , written up in the Lonely Planet. It was my 3rd visit over the last two years and the seafood is good. I had Merluza , a good whitefish and Ric had salmon. The proprietor served us liquors that he had made himself from a local fruit ‘Murta.

The movie last night was notable because it did not feature Liam Neeson!. But it was quite bad. ‘The Vow’ was a harlequin type of romance ; it occurred to me at the beginning that the screenplay might have been written by James Patterson. What a surprise when the lead actress said that her favorite writer was JP himself.


It is 10 am on a saturday and we are sitting in the Barlovento. A bar of course , and the name means ‘leeward’. A half dozen local guys are ensconced having their first Cristal beer or Pisco of the day. We’re here for the Wifi and instant coffee.

Quemchi is a pleasant little town without much industry. We used a buoy last time we were here , but this time we had to anchor in 95′ of water; the deepest I’ve ever anchored . It was only 90′ at Bora Bora in 1988.

We were out walking on the island of Mechuque yesterday , and we saw 3 very urban looking young Chleans with photo equipment. They were spending 5 days preparing a tourism pamphlet about Mechuque. When they saw us ; ” at last some tourists”: we are in a few photos now.

Here are some more photos , but this time I have only supplied the link , which will , I hope , take you to Picasa web albums and the photos will be better quality. Mer suggested doing this some time ago , but I’m a bit slow on the uptake. You need to highlight the url then left click for the options.

(what I actually suggested is using a nifty little thing that embeds the photos straight from picassa into the blog post. cool eh? but I’ve left the links in case anyone wants to go to picasa directly – the quality may indeed be better -meredith)

There is likely a way to make the link simply clickable but I don’t know that yet.